Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Francisco’s Centro Vasco
159 West 23rd Street between 6th/7th Avenues
New York, NY 10011
(212) 645-6224
Subway: 1/F/V to 23rd Street
Bus: M5/6/7/20 to 23rd Street


The neon lobster out front really says it all: Francisco’s Centro Vasco is the spot for lobsters. It’s not much to look at, inside or out, with a run-down Spanish taverna feel; in fact, the first time I went, my husband’s look of disdain was enough for me to know we’d never return together. Potent margaritas and tasty sangria are served at the bar and in the dining room.

The menu is filled with a random assortment of seafood as well as some Spanish dishes, but I’m telling you: if you don’t get the lobster, you’re missing out.

This is the kind of place where your entrees include a salad, sides, etc. As soon as you sit down, bread, butter and a bowl of salad is set down at your table.

Don’t fill up on the bread.

This is the kind of place you go with a group so I’ve tried many of the appetizers. I love their black bean soup; it’s thick and creamy, with a ton of flavor and without that plain, beany taste. I also enjoy their chorizo. Thin slices of chorizo are browned to a slight crisp, and although simple, it’s tasty especially with the black bean soup. Both are filling, so sometimes I’ll order them to-go to make sure I have room for lobster.

I wouldn't recommend the oysters or littleneck clams on the half shell. Oysters had almost no taste; littleneck clams had more taste than they should. The mussels were average, but I’m not a huge mussel person. The shrimp in green sauce was disappointing. The Italian-style clams casino were surprisingly good for a Spanish establishment.

The main attraction is the lobsters. They’ll place a card on your table with the different sizes available that night. The last time I was there, they had a 13-pounder available. If someone orders it, they’ll parade it around the room -- it's, no joke, the length of my arm. I prefer the lobster broiled over steamed; they split the lobster in half, and gently stuff it with a golden breadcrumb topping. The shell gets toasty which imparts more flavor into the lobster meat.

Rice, potatoes, Spanish fries and green beans sautéed in garlic and olive oil accompany the lobsters, but there’s no room for all of these accompaniments.

Desserts, if you have room, aren’t worth it. Maybe the flan, which everyone seemed to devour. Nothing else has really been that memorable. Instead, I would go with Francisco’s special cappuccino, a potent kick of four liqueurs to end the evening.

This place may be a bit kitschy (there’s always someone celebrating a birthday), but the food is solid and the prices (for lobster in NYC) are impossible to beat unless you’re cooking at home.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Aburiya Kinnosuke
213 East 45th Street between 2nd/3rd Avenues
New York, NY 10017
(212) 867-5454
Subway: 4/5/6/7/S to Grand Central
Bus: M/15/101/102/103 to 42nd Street


I am very unaware of Japanese food, and I know why: I have never been to Japan, and I have no Japanese friends. That said, I’m very interested in knowing about Japanese food, so I suggested Aburiya Kinnosuke for dinner with two of my girlfriends.

The restaurant is below ground a short flight of steps, and as soon as you enter, the clean lines and dark wooden walls typical of Asian restaurants is evident. There are private booths, some tables and a sushi bar for dining. I appreciated that most of the tables (particularly the private booths) were occupied by Japanese businessmen.

My friends let me drive, and we ordered a number of dishes to share. I couldn’t resist the mushrooms sautéed with bacon and butter, which were rich, indulgent and delicious. There were a variety of mushrooms, including oyster, shiitake and what I thought were king.

The deep fried tofu was clean and simple, served with soy sauce and freshly grated ginger.

The ground chicken skewer was roasted over hot coals and from our corner sushi bar seats, you could watch the chefs as they turned the chicken to a perfectly crisp exterior while the aroma of toasted rice floated towards us. We chose not to have it sauced, and it burst with flavor anyway – really quite delicious.

The sautéed shrimp with aona greens was very soothing to me. It reminded me of a light stew and with rice, I could imagine craving it when I’m next ill. The rice balls filled with cod roe could be the perfect snack food, and despite the delicious filling, there was too much rice.

The grilled scorpion fish was probably my least favorite. It was a small fish served whole that had a lot of teeny bones and was annoying to eat. When it was cooked, it tasted good, but there were parts that were still cold and on the raw side.

I love the noodles that finished our meal… mai fun-type noodles that are sautéed with vegetables are slightly creamy, while some noodles are crispy and some are toasted. It would have been even better had we had it with pork.

I had also ordered the pork cheek, but our server didn’t write it down, which was probably for the best since we were all stuffed by the end of dinner. Despite being stuffed, I wanted to lick clean every part of this meal (except the fish), and next time (if I can convince my husband to dine with me here), I’m looking forward to trying more dishes particularly the fish collar and the pork cheek. Service was attentive as you’d expect, and price... including 3 large carafes of sake and a tremendous amount of food, it only came to $53pp with tax and tip.

Thursday, May 10, 2007

The Grocery
New American
288 Smith Street between Union and Sackett Streets
Brooklyn, NY 11231
(718) 596 3335
F, G at Carroll Street

Dinner at The Grocery is the perfect reason to make a trip out to Brooklyn.

I was at The Grocery on Tuesday this week with a friend. We took a taxi from the East Village across the Brooklyn Bridge to Hoyt Street. Warning: if you take a taxi out to Carroll Gardens, Smith Street is a long, one-way street. You may be better off riding down Hoyt Street and then walking the small block to Smith Street. Tip: the building numbers on Hoyt almost perfectly correlate with the ones on Smith Street. You can also take the subway which lets you out on Smith Street quite close to The Grocery (we were running late, so that option was not really an option at all).

For starters, we asked chef-owner Sharon Pachter for assistance with picking out a bottle of red wine. We knew what we were interested in eating, seafood and duck, but we didn’t know many of the wines on the 35-bottle (or fewer) list. Sharon picked out the wines herself and surprisingly, she put a lot of heart into recommending a bottle for us. We chose a Las Terrases, a Spanish red, with fruitiness (a distinct “jammy” taste) and less body to complement the seafood and particularly the duck. It was a delicious wine; upon the first sip, I told my friend that I could drink the entire bottle before the meal came out. Alas, I am not an alcoholic, so I refrained.

The amuse bouche consisted of potato leek soup (served in an industrial-looking yet cute metal jigger) and potato croquettes. The soup tasted like pea soup with slightly more personality. The croquettes were petite and delicious. Any larger of a croquette would have been decadent.

We started with the lobster tart with potato and leek and mache salad and the roasted, stuffed squid with black risotto, chick peas, and spinach. The tart was buttery and flaky, and surprisingly fabulous. The tart perfectly showcased the lobster and the flaky crust as equal players. The squid was more rustic tasting because of the spinach and chick peas. I would have expected something richer and more predictable with this dish, but I wasn’t disappointed. And beware: a squirt of squid ink is not pretty so be careful.

For our entrees, we shared the monkfish (I believe monkfish. It’s not a good sign when someone who dreams in food cannot remember a meal) and the slow rendered duck breast. The duck breast was recommended on almost every food site I consulted before my journey (namely the New York Times and New York Magazine). Although it was indeed crispy and well-prepared, it was not earth-shattering in any way whatsoever. Obviously, the fish was forgettable, so I will leave it at that.

The dessert menu was a pleasure to choose from. It was an easy choice though: hazelnut panna cotta (which replaced the Tahitian vanilla panna cotta for the night) and the gingerbread steamed pudding. The pudding was delicious for a few bites but much too syrupy and sweet at the center for even my own sweet tooth to endure. It may be one of the only desserts that I’ve tried that is quite good but unfinishable. That may not be a word, but I believe you know what I speak of. The hazelnut panna cotta, on the other hand, was hands-down the best part of our meal. Smooth, delicious, and should never be changed one bit. Both desserts came pleasantly decorated with thin slices of seedless, red grapes. A new touch that surprisingly went well with both desserts.

Perhaps it is because we ate at the less crowded hour of 9pm on a Tuesday night, but our service was phenomenal. The recommendations were completely on-par (and the staff was happy to recommend) and there was not a hint of pressure on us to leave even though we were the last ones seated at the restaurant. There’s also a beautiful back garden that is open in the summertime. It is not heated with lamps, so you want to make sure it is warm enough for you before you choose to be seated back there. Finally, there is a tasting menu for $75 and $100 with wine pairing. We did not opt for that because the menu was not extensive and we found dishes we immediately knew we wanted, but $100 for a tasting menu with wine pairing is a steal (especially compared to Manhattan), no?

If you are headed to The Grocery, go for the whole experience. Walk down Smith Street on your way there, enjoy the hominess of the restaurant and an ambitious and satisfying meal with personalized service (our waitress even called my friend “forlorned” while looking at the menu; unfortunately, no such word exists, but we understood her point. Also, chef-owner Sharon, at the start of our meal, shimmied her way under our neighbor’s tablecloth to fix an unsettled table.). And be sure to enjoy a after-dinner drink in beautiful Carroll Gardens at a neighborhood bar before you head back on the subway or taxi, or make your way home however you choose to.

Don’t go expecting a top-rated Zagat showdown at The Grocery. Rather, go to taste ambition with every bite.