Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Essex
(American)
120 Essex Street on the SE corner of Rivington Street
New York, NY 10002
(212) 533-9616
http://www.essexnyc.com
Subway: F to Delancey Street, J, M, Z to Essex Street
Bus: M9 or M14A to Essex & Delancey Streets


Back in 1999, when Essex was relatively new, this place was more of a lounge than a restaurant, but sometime between now and then, Essex became a full-fledged restaurant. Located in the hip Lower East Side, Essex creates its own warehouse chic feel that fits in with the neighborhood.

If you’re going for brunch, make a reservation. Here’s my personal experience with the crowds at Essex: a few months ago, a group of eight of us tried to have brunch at Essex at noon on a Sunday; I had another commitment at 1:30pm, so I was unable to partake in brunch because by 1:15pm, we still had not been seated. Fortunately, this time around, a reservation had been made, especially since we were a group of 12, celebrating a friend’s bridal shower.

Brunch is a $15 prix fixe and includes THREE (yes, 3!!) brunch-esque cocktails (bloody Marys, mimosas and screwdrivers). Sadly, I wasn’t drinking, so I had to settle for a virgin Mary. These bloodies were SPICY – definitely a wake-up call on a droopy weekend morning. And perhaps it was because we were a group, but everyone who was drinking had more than 3 drinks, and no extra charges were added to our bill.

The food: I’m not exactly sure what type of food Essex is supposed to have. I’ve read “Jewish-Latin fare” and just “Latin” but when I was there for brunch, I saw an omelet, eggs Benedict (classic plus a few variations of), biscuits & gravy, steak & eggs, chocolate-blueberry pancakes, bacon… most of which didn’t sound very Latin or Jewish (especially the bacon) or a combination thereof. I noticed a few “Jewish” dishes: potato pancakes, challah French toast, lots of cured salmon (aka gravlax) and matzo; and their “Latin” aspects: the Cuban sandwich, an egg dish with torilla chips and pico de gallo, but is this enough to classify this restaurant as “Jewish-Latin”? It sounds pretty melting pot to me, which is the definition of AMERICAN.

As for how the food tasted, it was good enough. The chocolate-blueberry pancakes (which I didn’t order) were good enough that I wanted another bite. Actually, the pancakes were delicious. Everything else was less delicious. I ordered the Southern – biscuits & gravy. I am married to a Texan so I know biscuits and gravy. This was not good. Nothing else looked good. Except the pancakes.

Still, the brunch is worth it, just for the drinks. Bring good friends (ideally one or two that doesn’t drink so you can steal their drinks) and bring 20 bucks, and you’ll be golden (or a little pink-cheeked from the mimosas).

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