Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse
(BBQ)
2202 Inwood Road at Redfield Street (near Harry Hines Boulevard)
Dallas, TX 75235
(214) 357-7120
http://www.sonnybryans.com/


When I think of Dallas, I think of BBQ. Since my husband is a Dallas native, I deferred to him to choose the spot, and we ended up at the original Sonny Bryan's Smokehouse. After having tried multiple spots in NYC (I think I’ve already said that my NYC favorite is Blue Smoke), I thought it was time for me to try true Texas-style BBQ... IN TEXAS.

Sonny Bryan’s has been around since 1910, and the Inwood branch is the ORIGINAL. The restaurant didn't look like much when we pulled up: a rundown wooden shack with screened windows and picnic tables outside. In fact, I felt like the Big Bad Wolf could huff, puff and blow the place down. Inside looked pretty much the same... it isn’t exactly white fabric tablecloths and sterling silverware. Plus there's no air conditioning.

The above and beyond friendly staff welcomes/accosts you as you walk in the door, requesting your order. Somehow it's not offensive since they're so cheerful about it. My husband ordered a beer on tap to enjoy while we waited, and it was so cold, steam rose from the glass in the hot air.

In order to maximize the amount of food I could taste, I ordered the two meat dinner (pork and ribs) which came with two sides (I chose French fries and cole slaw), while my husband had the beef sandwich (which came with nothing; he needed his own fries though, since I had no intention of sharing).

We couldn't resist ordering onion rings when I saw an order coming out for another patron. Thick and golden, they looked delicious. Unfortunately, they didn't deliver. The crust fell off too easily, and the delicate balance between onion and outer crust was too uneven. If you like an onion ring that's much more onion than crispy crust, then this may be for you.

But on to the good stuff: the MEAT! All of the meats were quite obviously smoked and cooked for long periods of time, since it was falling apart and tender. The pulled pork actually may have been too tender, since it was almost mushy. The flavors weren't as robust as I'd expect from TEXAS BBQ. What I did surprisingly enjoy immensely was the sauce that accompanies the meats. I'm not one for BBQ sauce, but this one was served warm, with a balanced sweet/tart/spicy taste that gave the meat the flavor it lacked. I still would've preferred a more seasoned pork.
Although there are no actual tables at this Sonny Bryan's location, you are able to eat-in (if you can stand the lack of air conditioning in the Dallas heat); the front of the restaurant holds about 14 (give or take) individual tables (similar to elementary school desks). Outside are picnic tables where you can also enjoy these grubs.

I may not try Sonny Bryan's again, but I'm glad I finally experienced true Texas BBQ. It was cheap, tasty enough and hit the spot.

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