Barbuto
775 Washington Street at West 12th Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 924-9700
Subway: A/C/E to 14th Street; L to 8th Avenue
Bus: M11 to 12th Street (or closest street); M14 to 9th Avenue
Barbuto makes me smile. I’ve walked by 1000x, and I always look through its greenhouse windows (that open in summertime) to see a bustling scene of eaters, drinkers and revelers, and that energy is one of the things that I love about New York.
There’s really nothing about the décor that stands out; it’s simple and industrial-chic with very hipster servers wearing all black and the Barbuto baby-t’s. A great long bar spans 2/3 of the restaurant’s length, and at 7:15pm on a Thursday evening, Barbuto was empty (way too early for the normal customers in that neighborhood, but perfect for our girls’ dinner to catch up).
Our server began by “explaining” the menu which is broken up into five sections: formaggio (cheeses), antipasti (appetizers), primi (first course – essentially the pasta course), secondi (entrees) and contorni (side dishes). I love that the dishes on the menu are seasonally-influenced, and it seems that dishes could change daily since the date is printed at the top of the menu.
We chose to forgo the cheese course and begin with the Treviso salad (chicory, anchovy dressing, sieved egg). None of us knew what chicory was (I was imagining frisee, but thinking of New Orleans chicory coffee), but it turned out chicory is just a broad name for radicchio and Belgian endive, both “greens” that I love. I liked it, and the bitterness was offset by the slightly-too-strong anchovy flavor in the dressing, but it wasn’t spectacular.
The cappalunga (Italian for razor clam, a long skinny clam) consisted of five moist and tender razor clams served on an open shell with a crispy pancetta and Champagne vinegar dressing that complemented them wonderfully.
The pulpo alla piastra (seared octopus with chili & crushed olives) was probably my favorite; it was difficult to discern what was what, and I’m trying to research what “alla piastra” is, but it was so good, I didn’t care. Barbuto’s was delicious with chunks of olives and what I thought were caperberries, a little kick from the chili and the perfectly-cooked octopus.
I have a major weakness for pasta, and Barbuto’s don’t help. The gnocchi stagionati are not your typical gnocchi: perfect plump potato pillows are browned until just crisp and then served in a simple butter sauce with baby carrots, some greens and parmesan cheese. I could’ve eaten this for each course and have been happy. Although I was eyeing the carbonara (a favorite pasta of mine), we decided on the organetti con ragu on this cold winter’s night. This, too, was wonderful with its toothy ridged pasta (a cross between orecchiette and radiatore) covered in an earthy deep sauce of veal, pork and porcini, which could only have been improved had there been a light sprinkling of nutty Parmagiano Reggiano on top.
The spigola straccia is a dish our server recommended: striped bass with forest mushroom topped with a romesco sauce. I was disappointed because the fish was overcooked and slightly dry, but with a little imagination, I could see how this fish might be someone’s favorite especially with the romesco, a sauce traditionally made with garlic, almonds and chili and a favorite of mine. The gratin of swiss chard was amazing, slightly bitter chard baked with cream, parmesan and golden breadcrumbs… I could eat that now.
We also wanted a meat, and despite our server’s recommendation (and everyone else’s) of the chicken, none of us really wanted chicken. As one of my friends said, “Chicken is the one thing I can make at home.” That said, I was curious about the chicken after reading Adam Platt’s description of the “golden, crackly Peking-duck texture” of the skin, but we still couldn’t do it. Instead, we went with the pork shank (I almost always choose pork if possible), stinco di maiale, that is slow-cooked with cannelini beans and vin cotto (wine that’s reduced with flavorings to become like a syrup) until the pork is tender and falling off the bone.
We also ordered the polenta contorni, which I was hoping to have with the pork shank, but the timing was off, and we were practically finished with the pork by the time the polenta pillows arrived. On its own, the pork was fine; it was less flavorful, less fatty and less tender than I would’ve hoped, but it was okay. The polenta, on the other hand, was fabulous. Little nuggets of polenta that I believe were deep-fried to a puff – once you cracked open the puff, the inside was soft, creamy and lovely.
None of us could stomach dessert, after two bottles of wine and more food than I had imagined (many diners’ reviews complain about small portion sizes). Barbuto was packed by 8:30pm, and the noise level was loud, with acoustics that echoed in the open space. At a dinner where you’d actually like to hear your companions, I’d recommend that you go quite early. The food was excellent, and the tab was so affordable at $63 per person with tax and tip. Barbuto still makes me smile.
775 Washington Street at West 12th Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 924-9700
Subway: A/C/E to 14th Street; L to 8th Avenue
Bus: M11 to 12th Street (or closest street); M14 to 9th Avenue
Barbuto makes me smile. I’ve walked by 1000x, and I always look through its greenhouse windows (that open in summertime) to see a bustling scene of eaters, drinkers and revelers, and that energy is one of the things that I love about New York.
There’s really nothing about the décor that stands out; it’s simple and industrial-chic with very hipster servers wearing all black and the Barbuto baby-t’s. A great long bar spans 2/3 of the restaurant’s length, and at 7:15pm on a Thursday evening, Barbuto was empty (way too early for the normal customers in that neighborhood, but perfect for our girls’ dinner to catch up).
Our server began by “explaining” the menu which is broken up into five sections: formaggio (cheeses), antipasti (appetizers), primi (first course – essentially the pasta course), secondi (entrees) and contorni (side dishes). I love that the dishes on the menu are seasonally-influenced, and it seems that dishes could change daily since the date is printed at the top of the menu.
We chose to forgo the cheese course and begin with the Treviso salad (chicory, anchovy dressing, sieved egg). None of us knew what chicory was (I was imagining frisee, but thinking of New Orleans chicory coffee), but it turned out chicory is just a broad name for radicchio and Belgian endive, both “greens” that I love. I liked it, and the bitterness was offset by the slightly-too-strong anchovy flavor in the dressing, but it wasn’t spectacular.
The cappalunga (Italian for razor clam, a long skinny clam) consisted of five moist and tender razor clams served on an open shell with a crispy pancetta and Champagne vinegar dressing that complemented them wonderfully.
The pulpo alla piastra (seared octopus with chili & crushed olives) was probably my favorite; it was difficult to discern what was what, and I’m trying to research what “alla piastra” is, but it was so good, I didn’t care. Barbuto’s was delicious with chunks of olives and what I thought were caperberries, a little kick from the chili and the perfectly-cooked octopus.
I have a major weakness for pasta, and Barbuto’s don’t help. The gnocchi stagionati are not your typical gnocchi: perfect plump potato pillows are browned until just crisp and then served in a simple butter sauce with baby carrots, some greens and parmesan cheese. I could’ve eaten this for each course and have been happy. Although I was eyeing the carbonara (a favorite pasta of mine), we decided on the organetti con ragu on this cold winter’s night. This, too, was wonderful with its toothy ridged pasta (a cross between orecchiette and radiatore) covered in an earthy deep sauce of veal, pork and porcini, which could only have been improved had there been a light sprinkling of nutty Parmagiano Reggiano on top.
The spigola straccia is a dish our server recommended: striped bass with forest mushroom topped with a romesco sauce. I was disappointed because the fish was overcooked and slightly dry, but with a little imagination, I could see how this fish might be someone’s favorite especially with the romesco, a sauce traditionally made with garlic, almonds and chili and a favorite of mine. The gratin of swiss chard was amazing, slightly bitter chard baked with cream, parmesan and golden breadcrumbs… I could eat that now.
We also wanted a meat, and despite our server’s recommendation (and everyone else’s) of the chicken, none of us really wanted chicken. As one of my friends said, “Chicken is the one thing I can make at home.” That said, I was curious about the chicken after reading Adam Platt’s description of the “golden, crackly Peking-duck texture” of the skin, but we still couldn’t do it. Instead, we went with the pork shank (I almost always choose pork if possible), stinco di maiale, that is slow-cooked with cannelini beans and vin cotto (wine that’s reduced with flavorings to become like a syrup) until the pork is tender and falling off the bone.
We also ordered the polenta contorni, which I was hoping to have with the pork shank, but the timing was off, and we were practically finished with the pork by the time the polenta pillows arrived. On its own, the pork was fine; it was less flavorful, less fatty and less tender than I would’ve hoped, but it was okay. The polenta, on the other hand, was fabulous. Little nuggets of polenta that I believe were deep-fried to a puff – once you cracked open the puff, the inside was soft, creamy and lovely.
None of us could stomach dessert, after two bottles of wine and more food than I had imagined (many diners’ reviews complain about small portion sizes). Barbuto was packed by 8:30pm, and the noise level was loud, with acoustics that echoed in the open space. At a dinner where you’d actually like to hear your companions, I’d recommend that you go quite early. The food was excellent, and the tab was so affordable at $63 per person with tax and tip. Barbuto still makes me smile.
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