Saturday, July 22, 2006

Blue Smoke
(BBQ)
116 E. 27th Street between Park and Lexington (Gramercy)
New York, NY 10010
(212) 447 7733
6 train to 28th Street

When you’re hungover and only diner-style comfort food will satisfy, going to Blue Smoke for brunch is really upping the ante. And there I was: starving, hungover, and hungry. I ordered the fried oyster po’boy on brioche bun, french fries, macaroni and cheese, and a side of chicken sausage all for myself.

The oyster po’boy was a surprise. It was larger than I had anticipated and included hearty portions of oyster. The batter was light and not overpowering. It was delicious at first bite but had a rather peculiar, fishy aftertaste. The accompanying celery slaw was disgusting – ask for a french fries on the side, instead. The french fries were basic, the Pomme Frites variety – not nearly as good as Pastis’ and better than Les Halles, in my opinion. The macaroni and cheese was very cheesy, like Kraft, sliced American cheesy. I’ll go as far as saying it was too cheesy (I rarely say that) for the tiny macaroni they chose to use. It would have been far better if they had used a type of macaroni with greater surface area, perhaps one that is ribbed like Radiatore or Cavatappi, to sop up some of the excess cheese. Also, the mac and cheese could have used a bit more crispiness on top. The chicken sausage was a let-down and the only true let-down of my meal. It was tiny, fruity yet herby, and undercooked.

What I can say about Blue Smoke is that they don’t skimp. They give you portions, they give you stuff, but they’re food is a bit hard-core (too much sauce, too much cheese, too much flavor) for its dainty-looking, Danny Meyer-style BBQ presentation. It was a good meal overall, like a fancy barbeque joint with fancier prices, too, and the toothpicks at the end are always a fun surprise.

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