Mama’s Daughters’ Diner
(American, Comfort Food)
2014 Irving Boulevard between Manufacturing Street and Turtle Creek Boulevard
Dallas, TX 75207
(214) 742-8646
http://www.mamasdaughtersdiner.com/


On my quest for the ultimate comfort food in Dallas, I found Mama’s Daughters’ Diner. Although there are a few other branches, the Irving Blvd one is the original. On a Saturday morning, we found Mama’s Daughters’ Diner in a strange, desolate area. The restaurant was already crowded, and I was so happy that we motivated early enough to get a table.

Adorned on the walls are tons of photos, particularly of Norma, the original Mama. Something about the photo felt welcoming, and then I began to take in the aromas wafting throughout the restaurant. Dishes moved quickly out of the kitchen to the tables, and maybe I was just hungry, but I couldn’t help but stare at EVERYTHING because it all looked so good.

I ordered Mama’s breakfast special (my choices in parentheses): 2 eggs (egg whites well-done), grits or hash browns (grits), biscuits or toast (biscuits) and gravy, and chicken-fried steak, breakfast steak or 2 pork chops (chicken-fried steak). My husband had a breakfast special as well: 2 eggs (sunny-side up), 2 pancakes, biscuits and bacon. My eyes were big so I also ordered a side of hash browns (crispy) and a cinnamon roll.

The cinnamon roll was served first, and it was the most delicious cinnamon roll I have ever, ever had. It was homemade, warm, not too sweet, not too cinnamony, doughy. It was perfect. I wish I had ordered another one. As we were demolishing the cinnamon roll, our food came out.

I quickly sliced into the chicken-fried steak, and it wasn’t as knife-tender as I’d hoped… nor was it as seasoned and spicy – it was just OK. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t memorable. The gravy was pretty good; I especially enjoyed the flecks of pork in the gravy. I couldn’t eat the eggs, because, despite the “well-done” request, there were wet, almost-raw areas, which I couldn’t eat.

When I asked the waitress for butter for the grits and the biscuits, she pointed to the table – more specifically, a red plastic basket filled with individual tubs of Land O’ Lakes fresh buttery taste spread. Butter… SUBSTITUTE. When I explained to the waitress that I would prefer real butter, she said there was none in the restaurant. No butter in the restaurant??? Who doesn’t use butter??? After getting over the initial shock, I added the Land O’ Lakes fresh buttery spread to my grits, but they were inedible, regardless of the fake butter. Too gritty, not cooked long enough, and I must’ve gotten the bottom of the pot… I think I got the entire stale layer that gets stuck to the bottom.

I enjoyed the biscuits; they were more flaky, less crumbly and although they weren’t perfect, they were pretty darn good… especially smothered in the pork gravy. The hash browns were the shredded potato-kind, and cooked crispy, they were a delicious addition to the meal. My husband’s pancakes were great, fluffy, almost melt-in-your-mouth. The bacon was really meaty and chewy; it tasted good, but I prefer my bacon crisp. Since bacon didn’t come with my order, I’ll have to request crispy bacon next time.

Next time, and there will DEFINITELY be a next time since I’m still wishing that I had gotten pie (we were sitting in plain view of the pies, and they looked amazing)… and another cinnamon roll… next time, we’ll have to try lunch, since Mama’s closes at 3pm on the days they’re open. Before this ends, I have to comment on the prices. Mama’s is the definition of cheap eats. I was in opposite sticker shock! A side of hash browns was 89 cents; I think that may be cheaper than McDonald’s.

Good Eats (Southern, American, Comfort Food)
3888 Oak Lawn Avenue between Blackburn Street and Irving Avenue (but the restaurant is basically on the corner of Irving)
Dallas, TX 75219
(214) 522-3287
http://www.goodeatsgrill.com/
Public Transportation: I have no idea if there even is public transport in Dallas

I didn’t grow up in Dallas, or anywhere near the South, but I think of myself as somewhat of a “comfort food” aficionado (if I do say so myself!). When my husband and I were invited down to Dallas for a long weekend (first-class tickets and a room at the Mansion on Turtle Creek), I was excited to oblige (especially when I thought of the delicious food possibilities: chicken-fried steak, authentic Mexican and Texan BBQ).

I researched restaurants and cafes before we left, but the heat and my hunger panicked me when I walked out of the hotel so I asked the valet for a suggestion for some “local” food, and he pointed me in the direction of Good Eats (when I heard the name, I immediately thought of the Food Network show “Good Eats” which I thought was a good omen).

Good Eats is a mini-chain (4 locations) wholly within Texas, and when I pulled into the strip mall parking lot, I was a bit apprehensive, but this was slightly eased when I saw people waiting outside for the restaurant to open at 11AM.

The décor of the restaurant looks like an Applebee’s hit a rodeo. This made me nervous again, and I regretted taking the advice of the hotel valet and not planning better.

My husband was at a meeting so I was alone, and the incredibly friendly maitre d’ seated me at a spacious and comfortable booth. The young waitress was sweet as well – actually, everyone, including the patrons, acted friendly and smiley… exactly what you would expect in Texas. When I asked her what was good and fresh, she responded, “Everything’s made fresh, besides the fries… and the spinach…” Before she could go on, I ordered their award-winning chicken-fried steak (it won kudos from D Magazine and the State Fair of Texas – how could I not?) which came with two sides (I chose garlic spinach – a special – and French fries).

When the bread came out and being in Texas, I instinctively reached straight for the cornbread… what a mistake! It was horrible, like crumbly sawdust. I would’ve tried to spread on the accompanying softened whipped butter, except the entire piece crumbled into my hand as I tried. Having given up on the cornbread, I warily reached for the plain wheat roll. WOW… to my surprise, it was soft, warm and delicious. It was doughy and yeasty in a homemade-sorta-way, and the smell reminded me a little of the fresh-baked bread from Subway.

Finally, as I watched every other table being served (by the way, the restaurant filled up within 30 minutes of opening!), my entrée came out, and it was exactly what I had hoped for. The chicken-fried steak looked golden brown, well-seasoned and crusty. Amazingly, it tasted even better than it looked – tender, spicy, crispy. And the gravy atop was the perfect sauce… until it congealed three minutes later perhaps due to the AC blasting (combating the 100+ degree heat outside). Strangely, the crusty chicken-fried steak still remained crusty – not soggy in the least – even underneath that layer of gravy – a scientific wonder.

The greens were waterlogged, the fries missed being crispy (maybe they needed to fry it with the same method as the chicken-fried steak), yet I would definitely return to Good Eats, and next time, maybe I’ll try the meatloaf or pot roast, but I doubt it.

Essex
(American)
120 Essex Street on the SE corner of Rivington Street
New York, NY 10002
(212) 533-9616
http://www.essexnyc.com
Subway: F to Delancey Street, J, M, Z to Essex Street
Bus: M9 or M14A to Essex & Delancey Streets


Back in 1999, when Essex was relatively new, this place was more of a lounge than a restaurant, but sometime between now and then, Essex became a full-fledged restaurant. Located in the hip Lower East Side, Essex creates its own warehouse chic feel that fits in with the neighborhood.

If you’re going for brunch, make a reservation. Here’s my personal experience with the crowds at Essex: a few months ago, a group of eight of us tried to have brunch at Essex at noon on a Sunday; I had another commitment at 1:30pm, so I was unable to partake in brunch because by 1:15pm, we still had not been seated. Fortunately, this time around, a reservation had been made, especially since we were a group of 12, celebrating a friend’s bridal shower.

Brunch is a $15 prix fixe and includes THREE (yes, 3!!) brunch-esque cocktails (bloody Marys, mimosas and screwdrivers). Sadly, I wasn’t drinking, so I had to settle for a virgin Mary. These bloodies were SPICY – definitely a wake-up call on a droopy weekend morning. And perhaps it was because we were a group, but everyone who was drinking had more than 3 drinks, and no extra charges were added to our bill.

The food: I’m not exactly sure what type of food Essex is supposed to have. I’ve read “Jewish-Latin fare” and just “Latin” but when I was there for brunch, I saw an omelet, eggs Benedict (classic plus a few variations of), biscuits & gravy, steak & eggs, chocolate-blueberry pancakes, bacon… most of which didn’t sound very Latin or Jewish (especially the bacon) or a combination thereof. I noticed a few “Jewish” dishes: potato pancakes, challah French toast, lots of cured salmon (aka gravlax) and matzo; and their “Latin” aspects: the Cuban sandwich, an egg dish with torilla chips and pico de gallo, but is this enough to classify this restaurant as “Jewish-Latin”? It sounds pretty melting pot to me, which is the definition of AMERICAN.

As for how the food tasted, it was good enough. The chocolate-blueberry pancakes (which I didn’t order) were good enough that I wanted another bite. Actually, the pancakes were delicious. Everything else was less delicious. I ordered the Southern – biscuits & gravy. I am married to a Texan so I know biscuits and gravy. This was not good. Nothing else looked good. Except the pancakes.

Still, the brunch is worth it, just for the drinks. Bring good friends (ideally one or two that doesn’t drink so you can steal their drinks) and bring 20 bucks, and you’ll be golden (or a little pink-cheeked from the mimosas).

Zabb Kitchen
(Thai)
244 E. 13th Street between 2nd and 3rd Avenues (East Village)
NY, NY 10003
(212) 529 8770
4/5/6 trains to 14th Street – Union Square, L train to 1st Avenue

If you’re that person who traveled through Thailand, ate the most delicious foods along your journey, then came home to be flat-out disappointed with Thai food in the States, I have a solution for you. However, you must be a) living in New York City or b) willing to trek to New York City for a meal.

Zabb Kitchen doesn’t have just one name. To be honest, I’m not sure whether to call it Zabb Kitchen, Cha Cha Tea House (as written on the door), the restaurant formerly known as Pat Pong, or G&G (as it reads on its awning). I arrived at the restaurant thinking the East Village Thai restaurant Pat Pong had changed locations. To my surprise, I found a complete gem of a restaurant. A complete gem of a BYO restaurant, that is!

For the table of 10 I hosted at Zabb, we ordered pork and vegetable dumplings, summer rolls, and grilled beef salad to start. The vegetable summer rolls were as expected and the dumplings were not special and a bit soggy. I was hardly worried though because I could tell that those stand-bys were hardly going to be the focus of the meal. The beef salad with wonderful accents of Thai basil, ever-so-slightly minty, and rice shavings, toasty and tasty, was excellent. This is a must-order on any trip to Zabb. The portions are not large, so you may be happier ordering two for a party of 6 or more.

We continued with beef Massaman curry, tofu red curry, chicken pad thai, and spicy vegetable noodles with basil. The curries were exceptional – authentically spicy with a brilliant combination of flavors with each mouthful. You cannot go wrong with ordering curries with either beef or tofu. A great spin on Zabb’s red curry includes the use of Asian cabbage which you may mistake for kimchee. It adds a great, crisp freshness to the curry while absorbing some of the intense spiciness of the dish. The chicken pad thai was fine but much too boring for the splendid dishes that Zabb creates. The spicy basil noodles were thick noodles, cooked perfectly and seasoned perfectly, as well.

Desserts at Kabb were also great. The black sticky rice with mango is not to be missed. It is served exactly as you would expect in Thailand with perfectly ripened mangoes and a luscious, creamy coconut milk. We also tried the banana sticky rice which was good but too light on the banana taste in relation to the starchiness of the rice. The homemade ice creams were good, but one we had which was entitled something on the lines of “Love” was much too fragrant. It almost tasted like perfume. I’d skip the ice cream and go with mangoes with black sticky rice, one for each person at the table. It’s so delicious, you won’t want to share.

In addition to the splendid food, the prices are reasonable – curries and noodle dishes are under $10 each while appetizers hovered in the $5-$8 range. The proprietor, who is from Northern Thailand, is extremely friendly and willing to make recommendations while not dumbing down the flavors of the dishes in an attempt to protect meek tongues. The restaurant is fully BYO and fits about 30. You will absolutely love the grilled beef salad, curries, and the mangoes with black sticky rice. This restaurant gets an A from me, my highest rating thus far, enjoy!

Yabbies Coastal Kitchen
(Seafood)
2237 Polk Street between Green and Vallejo Streets (Russian Hill)
San Francisco, CA 94109
415 474 4088
MUNI Bus: 19, 41, 45, 47, 49.

From a lobster pound in Maine to a 2 lb. lobster at Bobby Van’s in Bridgehampton, I love nothing more than seafood. Yabbies’ décor, price, and ambience fall somewhere between the aforementioned locations. It was a Monday night (fish and chips night) and Yabbies was pretty much empty at 9pm. My friend and I sat down and immediately ordered a dozen oysters: 6 Kumamotos and 6 Hama Hamas (also from Washington). The Kumamotos were everything we expected (tasty) and nothing more. The Hama Hamas were not as tasty as the Kumamotos: they were slightly larger, looked like East Coast oysters, and had a slight briney flavor like their East Coast cousins. We gobbled the dozen down in seconds. The Kumamoto oysters were $2 each and the Hama Hama oysters were $1.80 each.

We also ordered a Caesar salad “The Classic Style” – heart of romaine with parmesan, croutons, anchovies, and dressing. It was small and certainly not worth $7.50, but on my quest to find the perfect Caesar salad, I sometimes have to pay the price.

We also ordered the Maine lobster and the linguine with fresh clams, garlic, and chili in white wine broth. It was a 1.5 pound lobster, boiled, with drawn butter. It was exactly what you’d expect from a 1.5 pound lobster flown to California from Maine and then served for 20-something dollars. It was satisfying enough. The linguine with clams was a disappointment. The pasta was overcooked – what were they thinking – linguine in white clam sauce should always be al dente! The portion was miserably small for $15.95 and the clams were sparse. It was slightly spicy but the chili really just took away from the flavor of the sauce. Yabbies’ version of linguine with fresh clams was a joke compared to the “real deal” and thus far my standard – the linguine with clam sauce at Enzo’s at 1998 Williamsbridge Road in the Bronx (http://arthuravenuebronx.com/enzo_restaurant.htm).

Overall, Yabbies was just fine. The food was decent, the wines by the glass and wine list were great (we had two white wines which were both excellent), and it was empty enough on a Monday night that we were able to enjoy the background music: the entire Led Zeppelin album. The only drawback (besides the linguine and Starbucks-like light fixtures) was that it wasn’t cheap… but neither is an airline ticket to Maine.

Chez Panisse Café
(California, Mediterranean)
1517 Shattuck Avenue
Berkeley, California 94709
510 548 5049
BART to downtown Berkeley (but it’s still a hike from there)

On a recent Saturday afternoon, a friend and I walked 2 miles from a shop on University Avenue in Berkeley in order to dine at Chez Panisse Café for lunch. We were worn, exhausted, and hungry. Sourdough bread and butter were brought to our table promptly. The bread was tough which I’ve grown accustomed to with sourdough. The butter was tougher as it most likely traveled directly from refrigerator to our table. As you will gather from my previous and future reviews, bad bread and butter at an expensive restaurant can easily cause a restaurant’s descent.

First was the roasted peppers with sheep’s milk ricotta and olive toast. We decided on this after seeing it being served to our neighbor’s table. I am a lover of ricotta in every possible way one can dream to serve it. Sadly, this ricotta was a letdown. It wasn’t very tasty nor creamy and as a centerpiece to the dish, the dish was disjointed. The heirloom and cherry tomato salad with aioli was excellent. The cherry tomatoes were sweet, tangy, and delicious – everything I’d expect from the in-season tomato, as well as from the restaurant. The aioli was unnecessary for the olive oil and basil served with the tomatoes were more than sufficient.

The Garganelli pasta with shell beans, rapini, and hot pepper tasted as though the rapini and beans were seasoned together and then added to the pasta. Everything but the pasta was over-salty almost to the point of being inedible. There was a slight hint of hot pepper but so light that it hardly deserved mention. The pasta itself was the best part of the meal as its surface area absorbed just enough of the saltiness of the beans. The grilled chicken breast saltimbocca with sweet corn polenta and Romano beans was good. The chicken breast was more tender than I would have expected from the cut and its wrap in bacon added a hint of flavor. The polenta was outstanding and the beans that accompanied the dish were delicious.

For dessert, we shared two: the almond cake with strawberries and the kirsch custard with summer berry coulis and pain d’amandes. The cake was a great idea, but tasted like a swig of almond extract. The custard was too syrupy and fruity although the custard itself was marvelous. If I could do it again, I probably would have ordered something much more basic like the coffee-chocolate-almond ice cream.

From what I read, Alice Waters tries to achieve the essence of dining at home. That is what it was in many ways: conceptually grand but unfinished and somewhat sloppy.
Overall I was underimpressed by the meal but delighted by its highlights.

Mijita Cocina Mexicana
One Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market Street), #44
San Francisco, CA 94111
(415) 399-0814
http://www.mijitasf.com/
Muni: N Judah to Embarcadero Station


If you love food, restaurants and chefs like I do, the name Traci des Jardins (best known for her San Francisco restaurant Jardiniere) is as familiar as the name Mickey Mantle is to someone who loves baseball (or, for that matter, the general population). So when we made a stop at the Ferry Building while visiting my family in San Francisco, it was a no-brainer to grab a bite at her brightly colored nook in the Ferry Building called Mijita.

The ambience at Mijita is casual and perfectly represents its location as well as its menu. Des Jardins has developed sustainable Mexican recipes reflecting her roots and her California upbringing.

Since I was with a few people, we ordered a fair number of menu items in order to get an across-the-board taste of her creations: off of the regular menu, fish taco, quesadilla Mijita, queso fundido, a side of frijoles, guacamole & chips, plus the bean burrito for my 2-year-old nephew. Off of the specials menu: carnitas sandwich and chicken taquitos. After our cashier rang up our order, I noticed that although the menu may be authentic, the prices certainly were not (about $55 including tax but not beverages).

Portions were small, but tasty. Chicken is my least favorite meat, but the taquitos were delicious – light, crispy, with no greasy taste. The fish taco was similarly tasty: flaky Mahi Mahi, lightly battered and deep-fried until perfectly golden, inside a warm corn tortilla. But the all-star of the bunch was the queso fundido – melted cheese (described as “Mexican cheese” on Mijita’s website) mixed with chorizo served with warm flour tortillas. Simple as it is, it was delicious on its own, or as an addition to each of the items we ordered, particularly the very plain bean burrito (children’s menu item), which I didn’t expect would be spectacular, but at least more interesting than Taco Bell (it wasn’t).

I wish we had ordered the carnitas tacos, which is usually my favorite anywhere (especially Mexico), because the carnitas sandwich was mostly bread, and the bread just wasn’t good. I’ve definitely had better guac (Rosa Mexicano, Dos Caminos, my own), and Mijita’s namesake quesadilla left no impression at all.

I’ve read elsewhere that Mijita uses all local, organic ingredients, hence the high price tag on its dishes. I’ve never been one for organic anything, so next time I’m in San Francisco looking for a big name chef, I may save my $55 towards a down payment for dinner at Restaurant Gary Danko.

Dim Sum GoGo
5 East Broadway btwn Catherine St/Chatham Sq (which is what Bowery becomes)
New York, NY 10038
(212) 732-0797
http://gochineserestaurant.com/DimSumGoGo/


Dim sum brunch is a NYC experience, best enjoyed with a group, and Dim Sum Go Go is the place to go if you want consistently delightful, light and tasty dim sum. If you haven't been, you should know that, besides the slightly disorganized wait, Dim Sum Go Go isn't the typical dim sum experience -- there are no carts roaming between tables, it's not a huge banquet hall filled with huge tables and diners are not hovering at the kitchen doors waiting for the next best thing to come out.

Weekends at lunchtime are usually crowded, and the wait was about 30 minutes this past Sunday at noon. Go Go has gotten a lot of good press as the "Best Dim Sum" in Manhattan, if not all of NYC, and with this press comes the crowds (while waiting, I sometimes wish that there wasn’t so many good reviews on Go Go, but it’s purely selfish so that my wait wouldn’t be as long).

Almost everything we ordered came out quickly and was amazing. Their XO sauce (a condiment offered at no charge) is bursting with flavor and is the perfect enhancement to the dim sum offered (I like a little chili paste as well). My three friends and I ordered Go Go hamburgers in steamed buns and an assortment of dim sum (fried shrimp balls, turnip cakes, pork dumplings, rice rolls with shrimp, rice rolls with parsley & scallions, spare ribs with black bean sauce, beef tripe with black pepper sauce, chicken & sticky rice in lotus leaf, chicken bun, shrimp dumplings, shumai, chives & shrimp dumplings, duck dumplings, chinese parsley dumplings, soybean dumplings and malaysian rolls).

This was the first time I’ve ordered something not on the dim sum menu… I'm sure the other dishes at Go Go are delicious, but I haven't tried them. I usually can’t make it past the dim sum. The Go Go burgers were served in steamed buns similar to what you’d get with Peking duck and served with taro fries. They tasted good (especially with a little chili paste and XO), with an herbal flavor; however, the texture was slightly gelatinous and rubbery, a bit strange for a burger. What really stood out (as usual) were dim sum, especially the chives & shrimp dumplings, duck dumplings and chinese parsley dumplings. The latter of the three was especially bright and would be the perfect final dumpling to savor as a palate cleanser before moving on to the delicious dessert Malaysian rolls. What was particularly UNextraordinary were the soybean dumplings and chicken buns; I’d definitely leave those off and get a second order of the chives & shrimp dumplings for next time.

I'm always looking for the real thing, and when it comes to authentic fare, I go to the source. I frequently go to dim sum with at least one (if not both) of two friends who are from Hong Kong, who live in Chinatown AND who speak Cantonese (Have you ever noticed that if you're with a native, you get better service (and sometimes freebies)?) Anyhow, the dim sum tastes spectacular, and if the locals think Dim Sum Go Go is the best of the best, that’s good enough for me.

Elsa’s on the Park
(American, Comfort Food, Burgers)
833 N. Jefferson Street between E. Wells and E. Kilbourn (Downtown)
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
(414) 765 0615
www.elsas.com

Elsa’s was a complete mystery to me. Huge glass windows. High ceilings. Stark, white furniture. Seemingly Swarovski crystal, life-sized jaguars in glass cases overhanging the booths along the wall. Sign at the door reading, “21 and over only after 7pm” (I think it was 7pm). Now, you guess the menu.

Burgers. Huh?

I ordered a half-pound ground sirloin burger (that’s how all the burgers are) with aged Wisconsin white cheddar cheese. It cost $8.50. My friend ordered the Truck Garden – a vegetarian sandwich loaded with avocados and sprouts, among other tasty veggies. That cost $6.25. Both came with waffle-cut fries, fresh fruit and vegetables in a basket with our meals. Our meals were substantial, satisfying, and delicious. There was hardly a wait for our food, service was friendly, noise level was comfortable, and the restaurant was beautifully minimalist (minus the crystal jaguars dangling above us).

Are you waiting for a catch? So were we.

We even sat there afterwards people watching and waiting for there to be some sort of catch. Most of the clientele was dressed upwards of smart, most fancy, actually. Men wore dress shirts with or without ties. Women wore jeans with trendy, flowing tops or wore dresses. Men in their 30’s, in groups of 2 or 3, sipped cocktails at the long bar opposite our table. One older man sat eating a sandwich and reading the newspaper at a table. Couples strolled in and out past eleven o’clock. Our waitress didn’t bring our check until we asked for it.

I always have so much to say about restaurants. As for Elsa’s, I have little to say because honestly, I really don’t get it. We walked out after leaving twenty-something dollars on the table and being completely confused by our experience. The streets were empty on a Wednesday night in the summer in Milwaukee. Bars were half full, restaurants were even less full, there was not another pedestrian on the sidewalks. (Earlier in the day, we walked through an empty mall with more salespeople than shoppers and not a soul in the food court.)

Elsa’s was so peculiar yet all too fitting. For Milwaukee.

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
646 W. 131st Street @12th Avenue (very close to West Side Hwy)
New York, NY 10027
(212) 694-1777
http://www.dinosaurbarbque.com/
Subway: 1 train to 125th Street/Broadway


Last night about 10 of us trekked up to Harlem (1st time!) for a farewell dinner at Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. Four of us arrived almost an hour early for our 8PM reservation, and as we entered the restaurant, our surroundings went from urban Harlem to a wild wild West rodeobar in full swing. We waited in the comfortable bar which had an ample assortment of interesting beers on tap. The best way to try a few (without getting hammered immediately) was the beer flight (4 4-oz samples of your choice); also available was a flight of agave tequilas (which we weren't ready to tackle). I also tried the Remy Red sangria (too strong, not fruity, not recommended), and everyone had some of our favorite beer: the Abita Purple Haze. While at the bar, we couldn't resist so we ordered a small Swag Sampler (fried green tomatoes, chicken wings, spicy shrimp boil and Creole deviled eggs)... it was good enough that we ordered it again once we were seated.

When all 10 of us were finally there and seated, we ordered A LOT of food & drink, starting with Coors Light pitchers (there are so few places in NYC that have pitchers!), 2 large Swag Samplers and 2 orders of chili. The noise level was loud, but audible conversation was definitely not a problem. The food came fast and despite our little bar snack, we were still hungry. The fried green tomatoes were excellent: tender yet not mushy on the inside of the perfectly crisp crust. The Creole deviled eggs were exactly right: creamy, tangy with a hint of spice. The drunken spicy shrimp boil, full of Old Bay spice, was also perfect, and this comes from a girl who went to school in Baltimore and had her fair share of Old Bay spiced shrimp. Even my husband, who snubs getting down & dirty to peel his own shrimp, started peeling away (after I peeled his first so he could see how good they really were). The chicken wings... they were meaty, but they didn't really taste like much. No one asked us how we wanted them, so make sure you specify if you do order this dish. The chili -- our native Syracusean, which is from where Dinosaur Bar-B-Que hails, talked highly of it -- I thought it was strange. It had a slightly sweet aftertaste... it didn't do it for me.

Down to dinner: at every meal, there are always people who eat like you, and who don't eat like you. I like to separate the table based on eating style: good eaters on one side, non-eaters far far away from me. Four of us last night were eaters, and the four of us shared the sampler extreme (1/2 rack of ribs, Texas beef brisket, 1/2 bar-b-q chicken), pork & brisket (pulled pork & brisket), an additional 3/4 rack of ribs plus 4 pieces of honey hush cornbread and 6 side dishes (each dish comes with 2 sides): mac & cheese (2), cole slaw, mini iceberg wedge (mini version of the salad they offer as a starter), french fries and Syracuse style salt potatoes. The pulled pork and brisket were tender, fall-apart good, and I would definitely recommend both. The ribs were good; some pieces were meatier and better, while others were dry and meatless. I wouldn't rave over them. My husband, a Texas native, felt similarly, and although I wouldn't trust him to review any Asian cuisine, I think he's a rib aficionado. I didn't touch the chicken; it looked dry, and at the end of the meal, it was the only thing left on our plates. As for sides, the mac & cheese, one of my favorite foods ever, was pretty good (creamy, a little dry), and each bite made me like it even more. The Syracuse-style salt potatoes were the best new thing I've eaten in a while: buttery-boiled new potatoes slathered in a buttery-delicious sauce. The fries were fries; the cole slaw didn't wow me. If the mini-iceberg wedge is anything like their actual wedge salad, DON'T GO THERE -- all we got was a little chunk of lettuce with a couple halved grape tomatoes and their house dressing in one of those red & white paper boats. What happened to the bacon and pecans that was in the salad description???

Overall, I think Dinosaur was pretty good. I definitely know what I would (and would not) order next time, and I still want to try to the Hot Elgin Sausage and simmered greens. Plus, it was CHEAP... tons of food, tons of drink and the bill was $32 per person, including tip!! That might be less than half of what we'd spend at Blue Smoke (reviewed 7/16/2006)! Harlem is not close, but the good food, hopping-fun scene and right price just might make it worth it.

Blue Smoke
(BBQ)
116 E. 27th Street between Park and Lexington (Gramercy)
New York, NY 10010
(212) 447 7733
6 train to 28th Street

When you’re hungover and only diner-style comfort food will satisfy, going to Blue Smoke for brunch is really upping the ante. And there I was: starving, hungover, and hungry. I ordered the fried oyster po’boy on brioche bun, french fries, macaroni and cheese, and a side of chicken sausage all for myself.

The oyster po’boy was a surprise. It was larger than I had anticipated and included hearty portions of oyster. The batter was light and not overpowering. It was delicious at first bite but had a rather peculiar, fishy aftertaste. The accompanying celery slaw was disgusting – ask for a french fries on the side, instead. The french fries were basic, the Pomme Frites variety – not nearly as good as Pastis’ and better than Les Halles, in my opinion. The macaroni and cheese was very cheesy, like Kraft, sliced American cheesy. I’ll go as far as saying it was too cheesy (I rarely say that) for the tiny macaroni they chose to use. It would have been far better if they had used a type of macaroni with greater surface area, perhaps one that is ribbed like Radiatore or Cavatappi, to sop up some of the excess cheese. Also, the mac and cheese could have used a bit more crispiness on top. The chicken sausage was a let-down and the only true let-down of my meal. It was tiny, fruity yet herby, and undercooked.

What I can say about Blue Smoke is that they don’t skimp. They give you portions, they give you stuff, but they’re food is a bit hard-core (too much sauce, too much cheese, too much flavor) for its dainty-looking, Danny Meyer-style BBQ presentation. It was a good meal overall, like a fancy barbeque joint with fancier prices, too, and the toothpicks at the end are always a fun surprise.

Blue Smoke (BBQ)
116 East 27th St between Park/Lexington Aves
New York, NY 10016
(212) 447-7733
Subway: 6 train to 28th St; Bus: M1 to 28th St


If you've never been to Danny Meyer's BBQ heaven (it is one of my favorite places to eat & drink in NYC), definitely make a reservation, unless you want to wait 2-3 hours at the long bar, sometimes standing 2-3 people deep to order a drink... dinnertime any day of the week can be chaotic.

Once you are seated, plan to indulge. On this visit, sister#3 and I had birthday brunch on a Sunday, which was the quietest I have ever seen this restaurant. Most of the occupied tables had children, another anomaly to me here. We were hungry, and we ordered plenty for two.

I always get the pulled pork sandwich (accompanied by coleslaw) because it is THAT GOOD (the pulled pork platter is $6 more, has a little more meat and comes with beans); however, it's always on the menu, and on Sunday, there was a special that sounded great: short rib sandwich with potato salad. So I went with it. My sister ordered the oyster po' boy. We shared a side of mac & cheese, french fries and chicken-jalapeno sausage.

The oyster po' boy was delicious - not exactly authentic, but shredded lettuce, tomato, perfectly fried oysters... had there been a little more remoulade, it would have smelled like New Orleans. The celeriac slaw, however, was not authentic and tasted dirty. The short rib sandwich could have been amazing, except for the sauce, which was overly sweet. I tried to wipe it off, but there was too much. The fries are always good (not tough to make good fries), and I love the mac & cheese, elbow noodles in a creamy, cheesy, slightly processed (in a good way) sauce. The sausage was too spicy and not really good.

We had both come off a night of drinking so it was water only, but if this were a usual meal, I would've ordered a Lynchburg Lemonade or mint julep. And next time I go (which will hopefully be soon), I know my husband will get the Texas salt & pepper beef ribs, and I'll either check out Sunday night's special chicken-fried steak or stick with my old favorite, the pulled pork sandwich.

Rex Café
(Comfort Food, French Bistro, American)
2323 Polk Street between Green and Union Streets (Russian Hill)
San Francisco, CA 94109
415 441 2244
MUNI Bus: 41, 45, 47, 49

Rex Café has a great location. Located along Polk Street in Russian Hill, Rex has outdoor seating, a large indoor bar, and dramatic high ceilings. Unfortunately, the food and service at Rex were a total disaster. I started with French onion soup which was watery yet salty, if that’s even possible. If it weren’t for the bread and massive amounts of cheese added, I would say that instant onion soup packets by Lipton are more satisfying. I also had a small Caesar salad, which was tiny, basic, and really a waste of money.

For my entrée, I had the butternut squash fettucine alfredo. Given my theory that fettucine alfredo is so rich, fattening, and made from so few ingredients that it would be criminal to make it poorly, I went for it. I thought the butternut squash was a Rex twist and looked forward to the amalgamation of flavors. It was an amazing feat that my entrée arrived at my table. Given the slow, oblivious manner of the waitress, I almost gave up on my entrée after 25 minutes had passed. The portion was small and the fettucine was almost inedible. It tasted more like rock candy than pasta.

I should have stopped there and walked down the street for a burrito to satiate my hunger; instead, I tortured myself with desserts. I figured chocolate cake was difficult to butcher and bread pudding gave off an air of “I’ve been on this menu for ages because I’m so good.” The bread pudding was almost as amazing as my entrée actually arriving to my table – it didn’t have any bread in it! It was candied grapes, raisins, and other fruit friends in a jelly sauce baked over something mushy that most likely was not bread and certainly didn’t taste like bread. The chocolate cake on the other hand looked like it was indeed chocolate cake. To my surprise, I encountered an ice crystal with my first bite. The cake had freezer burn.

Rex may have prime real estate but save yourself time, money, and even more time by skipping this place.

davidburke & donatella
133 East 61st Street
New York, NY 10021
(212) 813-2121


Last night my husband took me to this charming restaurant housed in a townhouse on 61st Street near Bloomingdale's to celebrate my 30th (ugh) birthday. He made the reservation on OpenTable (http://www.opentable.com/), which was easy AND we earned 100 Dining Points. We were seated immediately (one of the perks of dining in Manhattan on the weekend during the summer) in a nice corner table for two.

Very polished service is what you'd expect from a Zagat ALL-CAPS restaurant so I was surprised when from the beginning, I felt as though the B-team was our serving group. Our waiter/sommelier suggested wines without asking if we had a price range, starting with a $110 bottle of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, then a $375 bottle of Chateau Laville Haut-Brion (pronouncing 'Brion' like the name 'Brian'). Perhaps my shocked face gave away that the price range was a bit high (or that he had butchered the pronunciation). I settled for a $48 bottle of Henri Bourgeois Sancerre. On our chargers was a bi-fold paper that contained the tasting menu and specials of the evening; my husband's was blank.

The amuse-bouche served was a pastry filled with short-rib which was good, but a little dry for a meat that's usually melt-in-your-mouth braised. The wine was served a touch warm. Menus were given, and everything was expensive.

I'd like to preface that I wish I had read Adam Platt's 3/15/2004 review in New York Magazine before arriving, but I hadn't. He has an expense account to try all of this food; we do not.

I began with the seared foie gras which I was looking forward to because I LOVE FOIE GRAS. Some bites were salty, some bites were flavorless, some bites tasted chemically. Even the presentation was unattractive. The husband had the lobster bisque served with a lobster roll (imagine a spring roll with lobster). He wolfed down the lobster roll (if it's deep-fried, he'll eat it), but the lobster bisque was disappointingly brothy, rather than rich and creamy. The bits of lobster in the soup were overcooked and chewy.

Entrees were no better: I had the lobster "steak" with curried shoestring fries. Imagine going to a Chinese restaurant and ordering some lobster dish and pouring duck sauce all over it (and over the HUGE mound of literally "shoestring" fries -- not like McDonald's size, but thinner), then adding strong spices that almost overpower the duck sauce... then you would have this dish. For $44, I was sad. My husband almost always orders steak, so as expected, he had the Black Angus prime rib eye steak, medium rare. It was thin (for $41), slightly overcooked (for $41) and very very very salty (for $41). The one saving grace: four pieces of wilted butter (Boston) lettuce with Caesar dressing that accompanied the steak. The dressing was exactly as a Caesar should be. We each ate about 1/3 of our dishes and then hoped dessert would be better.

As usual, I couldn't decide among the desserts, so I asked the B-team waiter which he would choose. We went with a "dbd Classic": warm apple tart with cider caramel and vanilla ice cream. The apple tart was a classic, with a flaky crust, but it required a knife to cut off a bite (you couldn't just cut off a bit with the edge of your spoon or fork). It was good. But the caramel was inedible -- it was just overdone, which, for caramel, is death. Acidic and burnt, I couldn't believe they would put that on the plate.

All in all, I would go there again, but next time, I would do as Adam Platt suggested and get the crispy and angry lobster appetizer and the Dover sole entree (which was a special that I didn't order because it came with sage gnocchi -- I'm not a huge fan of sage -- and acorn squash, which doesn't seem appropriate in July). I forgot to mention that the chef de cuisine (I think his name in the menu was Eric O'Hare) was hot; he was talking to one of the patrons, and he looks like a younger, skinnier Rocco DiSpirito.

Chapeau!
(French)
1408 Clement Street at 15th Avenue (Inner Richmond District)
San Francisco, California 94118
415 750 9787
MUNI BUS: 1, 1AX, 2

When reading previous reviews of the space that Chapeau! occupies, I imagined a dimly-lit, loud, tightly packed room. I was rather surprised when I slid the curtain at the entrance of the restaurant to the right and discovered a bright room, the shape of a perfect square, with colored walls reminiscent of a nursery school, and tables lined up in perfect rows with less than a foot separating adjacent tables. My friend and I shared conversation which toppled over our neighbors’ conversation and unconsciously, we found ourselves discussing topics that had been discussed by our neighbors moments prior.

Chapeau! was a bright, little surprise. It had all the components of a French, fine dining experience. The waiter offered us a glass of Champagne before dinner and poured two perfect flutes before us in almost royal fashion. The amuse bouche was minted melon soup, which was certainly a palate cleanser.

We started with sweetbreads and seared foie gras (if ordering the set menu, the foie gras sets you back an additional $9). The sweetbreads were a bit dry, yet tasty – nothing beyond my expectations while the foie gras stole the show. Rather than the plump sort I expect from seared foie gras, Chapeau! chose to prepare it thinly. Each bite was moist and buttery – so much so that the toast was a necessity even though I routinely ditch the toast for a more decadent bite. The foie gras was perfectly complemented by a glass of Sauterne which was offered to us by our waiter when we placed our order.

Slices of warm, unremarkable baguette were served with butter that was in no way superior to Land O’ Lakes. I digress for a bit. Perhaps I am spoiled from the finest of creamy French butters from some of my favorite French restaurants, but in my opinion, a French dining experience is lacking when the butter is not outstanding. I use Alain Ducasse in New York City as an example whenever I discuss my expectations with fellow diners. Each time I exit Alain Ducasse after a rich, decadent, intoxicating meal, I always say that my meal would have been simply divine even if I had stopped my meal after the bread and butter was served. The butters at Alain Ducasse make you imagine a dream life of sitting at your own kitchen table each and everyday with a baguette in hand and that delicious butter. And perhaps a glass of wine. Life could possibly be complete. In no way do I expect all French restaurants to serve butters that even rival the choices at Alain Ducasse but again, I do expect a mild amount of impression, maybe even a subconscious, “I wonder where they buy this butter?”

I had originally intended on ordering the filet mignon as my entrée but went with the Cassoulet à la Toulousaine instead when the waiter suggested that the cassoulet better accompanied my appetizer. It was a traditional cassoulet of three: braised lamb, sausage, and duck confit with white beans in a stew. My partner ordered the rack of lamb. While we waited for our meals, a cart not unlike one that advertises cheese selections, entered the tight-knit room. Chef Philippe Gardelle, 2 Wustof Trident knives, and a wooden cutting board were ready to tackle the prime rib entrée which two seated nearby us had ordered. As Chef Gardelle waited for the arrival of the prime rib, he chatted with us about mobile telephones, specifically RIM’s Blackberry versus the Palm Treo, after he saw my partner check a work message on his Blackberry. Chef Gardelle was extraordinarily friendly, and after preparing our neighbors’ (everyone in the restaurant is practically a neighbor) prime rib, he followed a customer, who appeared to be a frequent one, to bid her farewell outside.

The Cassoulet was reminiscent of your average tagine; however, the duck confit was special albeit salty. The duck delicately fell off the bone and was an unlikely yet tasty combination with the beans and braised lamb that occupied most of the casserole. Although the beans were a pleasant addition to my meal, my partner’s lamb came with fava beans that were hardly cooked and much too eager and hearty to be served with the lamb. The beans reminded me of an option from an organic market’s salad bar that was desperately trying to be the star of the entree, rather than an added flavor to a delicious rack of lamb.

For dessert, we shared Profiteroles as the dessert which sounded most outstanding, the warm chocolate cake, had to be ordered with 15 minutes to spare. Although we had time to spare, we knew it would take at least that long for us to find a taxi from the secluded, taxi-less neighborhood where Chapeau! calls home. Profiteroles were the least impressive part of the meal. I say this in all seriousness: once, my step-mother made me Profiteroles from a box out of the freezer which tasted just as good. Ouch.

Chalaco's Corner
48 Valentine Street (corner of N. 7th Ave)
Mount Vernon, NY 10550
914-668-6500


The vertical blinds swaying in the windows or the "SORRY NO CHANGE" signs may turn you away, but Chalaco's smiling face behind the counter and in front of the open kitchen compels you to enter anyway. It's always warm in Chalaco's Corner, with a fan blowing in summer, so take-out may be a better option. Even in winter, service is curt and efficient, never teetering towards friendly.

Lunch specials are the real reason to go by: at $5-6 for a large portion, this is the deal that can't be beat. When I'm not low-carbing, my first choice is the lomo saltado, a stir-fried beef dish with tomatoes, onions and french fries, served with a heaping portion of rice. The ceviches (fish and seafood) are both delicious (although I did find a shell in the squid once): tangy, spicy and refreshing on a summer's day. The fried calamari is not greasy at all, and the crispy crust is light while the calamari is perfectly cooked. Other recommended dishes include grilled pork with red beans & rice, where the pork is lightly charred on its edges and sudado du pescado (steamed fish in a light tomato broth). Finally, I can never resist their salad dressing: the incredibly tart, vinegary dressing has a little kick that is light without boring.

Make sure you avoid anything with the imitation crabmeat (seafood fried rice, seafood soup). It's pink and mushy and ruins dishes that had hope. I've never asked if they could just omit it, but perhaps that's a possibility.

While you're waiting for your food to go, enjoy a little Telemundo or Latin pop music videos on the TV played loudly for their primarily local customers. And before you leave, make sure you say hi to Chalaco.

Frank’s Trattoria
371 First Avenue between 21st and 22nd Streets
New York, NY 10010
(212) 677 7141

Imagine going into a restaurant and being completely surprised by every aspect of your dining experience. First, in order to enter the restaurant at Frank’s Trattoria, you must first walk through the take-away pizzeria. Upon walking through the swinging door into the area demarcated as the “Dining Area” by the neon sign above the aforementioned door, you enter a bustling, tightly packed space with paintings and furniture reminiscent of a senior center circa 1976. If you were to keep one foot in the dining room and one foot in the pizzeria, your body would be covering a 20-year gap.

I was excited for a rich, hearty, authentically Italian plate of pasta. The menu was basic: ravioli, lasagna, carbonara, alfredo, puttanesca, bolognese, and the list continued onto the next page of meat dishes and seafood. I was out in search of a winning pasta dish at Frank’s; therefore, I overlooked the meats and seafoods. Although I was ready to place my order after a quick read, the curt service didn’t allow for even an exchange between me and the server. Being snubbed by the server only increased my interest in Frank’s Trattoria – I was ready to dive into a gargantuan plate of Italian splendor – food that was so good that the servers carried an air of the Soup Nazi. After I ordered, the hostess/owner who seemed to run the show at Frank’s, brought an antipasta salad and Italian bread that was basic but did a good job satiating my increasing hunger. I waited another 30 minutes to receive my meal: spaghetti bolognese and farfalle carbonara. Pasta was served in a modest-sized bowl that seemed to fit the décor of the restaurant and its size indicated that pasta is simply a first course and not an entire meal at Frank’s. Both pasta dishes were absolutely authentic. Authentic in the way home cooked food is. However, it was merely that – a home-cooked, no frills Italian meal. My bolognese was salty yet plain at the same time, and the best part about it was the al dente pasta. The carbonara was a step up: tasty although soupy. One pasta dish may be able to satisfy an appetite but one would be safer sharing another dish or getting an appetizer, as well. The meal was reasonably priced – each pasta dish cost about $10. Salads hovered around $5.

Frank’s does, however, have great thin crust pizza and they deliver in the neighborhood. I don’t intend on venturing into the “Dining Area” again for a while, but I will continue ordering their pizza, calzones, and well-portioned take away salads (mozzarella and tomato, Caesar) from the comfort of my home.

Stew Leonard's
100 Westport Avenue
Norwalk, CT


i was planning on doing a 5-day flush, but i already cheated. it started out great: we went to an engagement party in Fairfield, CT yesterday evening, and i didn't even nibble on the homemade hors d'oeuvres -- and the bride-to-be's mom is a GREAT hostess/cook so you know everything was delish.

on our way home, we stopped at Stew Leonard's. if you've never been to Stew Leonard's -- you're missing out. it's a dairy farm/grocery store-cum-Disneyland navigated like IKEA! everything they have there is high quality. but yesterday evening it was warm, and everyone there had the same idea: ICE CREAM.

creamy soft-serve vanilla/chocolate swirl on a cone dipped in chocolate Magic Shell... does anything sound better on a warm summer evening?

Joy Restaurant (formerly known as Joy of India)
127 E. 28th St btwn park/lexington
New York, NY
212-685-0808


living in NYC, there are so many delivery options that it's become a crutch for us -- as i'm sure it has for many. we probably order in 3-4x/week(!) -- it's pretty gross, especially since i really enjoy cooking. but i was exhausted last night, we had no food at home and the husband worked until 9p.

the husband wanted indian food, and his favorite is Joy. i've never actually been inside the restaurant, and there's a random story behind why he likes this place, but it's long and requires background info. one day i'll have my sister tell it -- she tells stories better.

so we always order the same core dishes and then add on depending on the hunger level.

the core: chicken korma (chicken in creamy yogurt sauce), daal mekhani (buttery lentils), small mater paneer (peas & curd cheese in a tomatoey sauce) and roti (whole wheat flatbread).

our add-ons: meat samosas, mulligatawny soup, extra roti, chicken chili.

we've ordered from Joy enough that i am 100% positive that the food is inconsistent. last night is the perfect example: we got the core plus the soup. the soup was perfect. the korma was good (it's been better, but it's been worse). but the daal was GROSS (even my husband couldn't eat it), and the peas weren't cooked properly and there wasn't enough paneer. overall, it was disappointing.

do you complain? it's pretty cheap ($29 including tip for delivery guy), so should you really expect more? plus we order from there a lot, and i don't want them spitting in our food on our next order! basically i just suck it up, and hope for a good one next time.

i've been meaning to do this for ages, if only to keep track of where and what i consume, since it seems like my entire life revolves around food & drink. i'm not sure exactly what motivated me, but here i am.

so a little background as to what this will hopefully evolve into: my sister and i love to eat. we love food. we live in the greatest city in the world: NYC (i know i'm a bit biased). there's A LOT to eat in NYC. plus, we travel. so we plan to share our experiences with whomever wants to know. and if nothing else, i'll have a neat little journal of where and when and what.

today, my husband and i got back from Vero Beach, FL on an early early flight (of course we hit traffic on the way back from JFK, so we got home around 1pm). he went straight to work, and neither of us had eaten, and i get very grumpy when i'm hungry. and i was FAMISHED. i made a Caesar salad (major pet peeve is when Caesar is spelled wrong)... it was delish. homemade dressing only (egg yolks, salt, pepper, Worcestershire, lemon juice, anchovies, garlic, EV olive oil -- in the food processor to get a good emulsion). i was still starving so i proceeded to make alfredo sauce, and the only pasta i had was rigatoni. good enough. it was also all we had left in the house. now i'm stuffed. and my husband will be coming home shortly for dinner. ugh.

more to come.